HI all,
If is possible, please tell me where goes tubes for water to Abarth 1000TC in original car. I think that it is never been under the car.... i think that it goes in to central tunel... ? in case,that it have to be in central tunel, please tell me point where tubes goes out of the car floor. If somebody have photos, please send it to LIbor_c@email.cz
This car is a replica, but you can see how the tubes go just under the floor of the car. I don't think there would have been room in the tunnel for those tubes and the cables and wires that have to be in it.
I don't have a photo of the rear tubes.
Thank you for your answer... on picture you can see another Abarth with front radiator and how you can see there is no tubes under the floor... so if anybody know what is the original way, please tell me. I know that put tubes under the car is probably the easiest way.
When I visited Guy's in June I took some photos of the underside of the period 850TC racer he has there. I'll look at them at home tonight to see if they show the water tubes.
Jim
I think I found the definitive answer.
If you go to http://www.abarth.nl
and click on My Project then 1970 you'll see a lot of period photos of an original Gp 5 850TCR. At the bottom right you will see the underside of the car and can clearly see the water tubes on the bottom of the car, not in the tunnel.
Jim
I have seen both. Actually let me phrase that differently, I have never seen one with the tubes in the tunnel. I have seen the tubes inside on the passenger side, and underneath. The passenger side tubes were in a very special record car that ran at the salt flats. Most cars have them outside since they are warm. Even hot. Sometimes there is steam in them.
Putting the water tubes inside the car would only make sense if there was no room for them underneath-- like in a record car where you want it close to the ground and not have the wind resistance of it being under there.
I say that because it seems to me that those long metal tubes will add some cooling if they are out in the cool air, but much less if they are in the hot interior.
And driver fatigue will be much higher if the cockpit is steaming hot.
only some racing bialbero/monomille had the tubes in car for short racing on circuit
I want to completly remove the rear radiator in my 1000TC replica on order to gain more water preasure in the cooling system. I will only have the front mount radiator. What is the best water tube diameter for the water circuit? I now have 22mm diameter corper tubes under the car. Will it be ok or do I have to replace them with bigger diameter coper tubes, like 32mm diameter???
yes min 32 mm tubes coper our aluminium
And another thing.....my front radiators dimentions are 170x750x30 This should be enaugh or do I need a bigger one?
I always say for road driving its to small ,for circuit its Ok
Guy ,
do you run the tubes inside the car ?
or under the car ?
thanks for the info
Dave
under the car,inside it in some country even not alow .Its to dangerus .Only in some Monomille ,bialbero I sow inside but only one .See all homomlogation and also 1300/124,simca 1150,1000 al under .It help also for cooling
Hi guy
My 600 Multipla has the water lines inside the car , is that correct ?
Dave
Multiplas didn't have a front radiator or a water/coolant type heater, did they? . Why would they have water lines inside?
If someone added a front radiator they may have put them inside, but it's a bad idea.
Jim
Multiplas do have a front radiator....
small but its there :)
Dave
I guess it makes sense-- with the extra weight and wind resistance I guess they figured the throttle would be floored 100% of the time.
The small coolant-fed "front radiator" in the Multipla is actually just the interior heater (core) - similar to the heater design used in the Fiat 850.
-JS.
yes ,because you have a heater in front ,our also int midle of the car and this is back apoof that when you have the tubes under water will be colder
Quote from: guy moerenhout on March 16, 2007, 09:28:31 PM
I always say for road driving its to small ,for circuit its Ok
The car is for road use. But 2 radiators are too much for te A112 water pump to circulate the water. What is the correct dimentions for the front radiator?
Notice that I have an oil cooler too. In that case the radiator I have now is enaugh?
yes ,because you have a heater in your car and tubes are protected
Quote from: ChrisD on March 19, 2007, 09:48:17 AM
The car is for road use. But 2 radiators are too much for the A112 water pump to circulate the water. What is the correct dimensions for the front radiator?
Notice that I have an oil cooler too. In that case the radiator I have now is enough?
An old (1998) Berni Motori catalog I have shows their replica pre-1965 front oil/water radiator is 18x75cm, and their post-1965 front oil/water radiator is 20x78cm. It does not say the thickness of the radiator. There are a few versions available material-wise; copper, 3-row copper or alloy (aluminum). Hope this helps as a starting point? ;)
Cheers,
-JS.
Thanks JS. I have that catalog too. I have seen the pictures and to tell you the truth I don't belive the radiators are thicker than 40mm. My radiator is custom made. I measured a A112 radiator and desighned mine in order to keep the volum of the radiator as close as possible to the A112 radiator. Considering that the undercar copper tubes help a bit in cooling I hope I will not have any problems. I would just like to know what dimentions other 1000TC owner have as a double check
Thanks
Chris
Hello all,
The water tubes to/from the front radiator need only be slightly larger than the smallest orifice in the water system. Usually this is the orifice in the thermostat when it is open. The tubes can be made of either aluminum or copper. On my race car I use 22mm ID aluminum tubing with AN-16 fittings welded on. All of the flex lines are AN-16. I have never had an overheating problem.
I also run only the front radiator with two small fans for slow speed work. One modification that I made was to replace the small petcock on the top of the front radiator with a small copper line running from there back to the expansion tank in the engine compartment. This allows the system to self-bleed itself of air, as the expansion tank is the highest point in the system.
The A112 waterpump should be easily able to handle any pumping requirement. Do not remove the thermostat. It is there for three reasons.
1. faster engine warm up.
2. restrict flow speed of the water - remember that if the hot water rushes through the radiator it will not have sufficient time to shed the heat. All you are doing is sending still hot water back to the engine to get even hotter. Even if want to remove the thermostat, replace it with a flat plate with a 1/2 to 5/8 hole.
3. The restriction of the thermostat/blanking plate allows the water pump to build slightly more pressure in the down side of the thermostat (in the block/head). We all know that pressurized water systems can take more temperature before they boil. Hence raising the pressure in the block will raise the boiling point of water in the block.
BTW - The absolute best conductor of heat is pure water. The worst conductor of heat is ethelyne glycol (anti-freeze). The maximum percentage of anti-freeze (should be called anti-boil) should be no more than 25% of system volume.
Hope this helps
Paul Vanderheijden
www.scuderiatopolino.com